Double Take Archery Laser Bowplane 2

By Barry O’Regan – Bohning Staff Shooter, T.R.U. Ball Staff Shooter.

I had the opportunity to buy a used DoubleTakeArchery Bowplane Laser 2

Like many of us, trying to set your bow up after a new string or equipment install such as sights and rests usually results in making adjustments and dialing in you bow.

My forte is shooting and not spending time in trial and error bow tuning, unless completely necessary, say for a tournament.

Using the Double Take Archery Bowplane 2 laser, once installed, adjustments only take minutes.

A good idea with the DoubleTake Bowplane Laser is you can perform minor adjustments before you head out to the range.

Before the advent of laser tuning devices for bows, most of us would most likely spend an hour or two at the range watching your arrows hitting all over the target as you try an correct your sights (Left to Right) and your rests (left to right, up and down marks).

The Double Take Archery Bowplane Laser is placed like an arrow onto the bowstring and then it extends onto the rest. The laser automatically hits all the fixed points, such as your cam and bowstring. Once these points are established by the laser beam, adjustment of the sights and rest take minutes to accomplish.

One feature I like is the Bowplane laser will show if the alignment of your sight and rest is aligned directionally with your stabilizer. That is a plus for me when shooting FITA shoots.

Directionally meaning the laser line is straight alongside your stabilizer and not lining away from your stabilizer.

One downside to this Bowplane 2 Laser is the lack of an “on/off switch”.

Once you put the AAAA batteries (That’s right AAAA batteries, usually found in the Camera section of stores) and place the end cap back on, the laser instantly turns on, so care must be taken to turn the laser light away from you when installing the batteries, burnt retinas are no fun.

To turn off the Bowplane 2 laser you must remove the end cap and take out one battery, you can leave the other 3 batteries inside the Bowplane 2 laser.

WARNING

While the Bowplane 2 much like your arrow, broadheads and other archery accessories. The Bowplane is an awesome tuning aid, but best keep it locked up with your firearms and treat it as such. “IT IS NOT A TOY! KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN~”!

Below are photos of this awesome tuning product every archer should have in his archery kit.

Setting up your bow

Here is the Bowplane 2 Laser alignment setup for your bow.

This will at least allow you a more accurate setup and alignment before doing your minute adjustments at the range.

As you can see, the laser automatically shows the alignment of fixed points such as your cams and bowstrings, alignment then can be done to your rest and sight to ensure they align to the laser beam positioned over the correct sight and rest mark.

For finger shooters, the rest and sight locations will have to be adjusted just to the left about 1/4 inch or less of the laser beam for right handed shooters and to the right for left handed shooters.

One great aspect is once setup and alignment has been accomplished, any errant arrows if spined properly at the target may indicate your shooting form needs improving as the laser alignment, done correctly doesn't lie.

Bowplane 2 Laser

The Bowplane 2 Laser showing fixed string, peep and cam alignment

As you can see, the laser automatically shows the alignment of fixed points such as your cams and bowstrings, alignment then can be done to your rest and sight to ensure they align to the laser beam positioned over the correct sight and rest mark.

For finger shooters, the rest and sight locations will have to be adjusted just to the left about 1/4 inch or less of the laser beam for right handed shooters and to the right for left handed shooters.

Once you have a Bowplane Laser you will say "How could I have been without one"?

Below are photos of how to setup the Double Take Bowplane Laser:

DIY Speed Nocks, pick up 6 fps and gain some sight placement yardage.

By Barry O'Regan  Bohning Pro Staff Field Reviewer, Bohning Staff Shooter, T.R.U. Staff Shooter.

Hello Everyone, I was curious about these speed nocks used on high performance bows for faster arrow speeds, while reducing string vibration.

Yesterday I took my 2008 Hoyt ProElite X2000, Cam 1/2 with a draw weight 56 # and 29.5 draw length as well as fletching some new Bohning Blazers on my 28.5 inch V6 Victory 400 Arrows to the range.

I also brought a dozen brass nocks (0.50 cents) usually used to hold your arrow in place on the string and keep the arrow from sliding up or down the string.

I also took my freshly calibrated Chronograph. I shot my bow and my arrow speed registered 275 feet per second (fps).

My experiment was to prove whether speed nocks are worth the effort in increasing arrow speed and reducing string vibration.

After some trial and error over 30 minutes placing a number of nocks starting right at the end of the serving below each cam, and shooting my arrows through my chronograph to record any speed increase and adjusting the nocks up and down the serving for the optimum sweet spot to gain as much speed as possible I gained close to 6 fps and quieted my bowstring oscillation in the process.

Conclusion

I am now shooting between 281.6 and 282 fps. To some that may not seem a big speed increase, but for me when shooting 3D I am usually within 8 points of a perfect score, and come either 3rd place, sometimes 2nd place and rarely 1st place.

So to me a 5 to 6 fps increase is huge, especially since I gain a few yards on each pin sight.

Certainly proof above I now have a faster arrow with a flatter shooting arrow which I hope will get me a few more points in a 3D tourney and put me in more 2nd place finishes with a few more 1st place spots.

Now I am in the process of changing my Cam 1/2 to a C2 cam on my ProElite and I am confident I will break the 290 fps barrier without increasing my bow weight from its current 56 pounds to 60 pounds.

Today I will back at the range with my FITA bow which is another 2008 ProElite, but was heavily customized and machined by Jim Posten, hence not a out of the box Hoyt.

One exception between my 3D Hoyt bow and my Fita Hoyt bow is my Fita Hoyt is a X3000 limb and is cranked up to 59 pounds and shoot 305 fps with 28 inch Victory Nanos, with Bohning fletches.

I figure with the addition of speed nocks I should pick up about 6 to 10 fps on my Fita bow.

I will let you know in a future post what those results bring.

So attached are the photos of the DIY of this process with proof in the pudding for those who want to take 30 minutes and get the same results as I have received.

No Chrono, no problem, fire a dozen arrows from different distances like 20,30,40,50 yards and mark their location with golf tees.

Once you put on the nocks in that sweet spot on the serving, fire another dozen arrows are the same distance like the first time, then compare your original arrows placement with your new and improve nockified arrow placement and you should notice your sight marking shows your arrow grouping a tad higher than they were before.

What to do to get an increase in arrow speed.

Here is the sequence I followed to get the additional arrow speed and flatter trajectory and silencing my bow string oscillation. These photos show my bow performance without putting nocks on the bowstring.

 Adding some Nocks to my Bowstring

Now the Chrono results by adding 4 brass nocks to the bowstring just below each Cam.

Arrow Spine Consistency, Tuning for Tighter Groups.

By Barry O'Regan - Bohning Pro Field Staff, Bohning Staff Shooter, T.R.U. Ball Staff Shooter.

 

Summary

There are three debates amongst archers on the spine stiffness area on an arrow.

The Question:

1) Is the stiffest part of the arrows spine under the manufacturer label?

2) Do all arrow manufacturers place the cock vane over the stiffest (spine) part ofthe arrow?

3) Can rotating the arrows nock assist in finding the stiffest part of the arrows spine?

Answer, No, No and Yes in that order!

The Test

This test will show you various arrows I will use and where the nock location will indicate on the arrow surface area which gives the best arrow groups out to 40 meters. This test will also indicate the most consistent spine stiffness from arrow to arrow manufacturer in which to affix your cock vane.

Don't Nock it, until you tried it!

All arrows will be using an adhesive Bohning Nock Position Indicator with gradient adjustments from 1 to 4 to show me the exact location of the nock in relation to the arrow in order to see where the consistency of the spine is finally located. By turning the nock a ¼ turn on each arrow should eventually see me getting a tight arrow group at 40 meters, thus concluding this is the best spine consistency from arrow to arrow!

Nocks such as Bohning Nocks have a raised line on the shank which I will correspond with the Bohning Nock Indicators Marked Gradients located on the end of the arrow.

The Bohning Nock raised line canthen be lined up with the Bohning Nock Indicator Gradients and used to consistentlyto determine where to affix your cock vane on the end of the arrow later onwith the help of marking the arrow shaft with a black sharpie.

The Arrows and Spine Range

I will shoot a set of four arrows with each set from different arrow manufacturers at 40 meters and adjust the nock a quarter turn at a time thereby rotating the arrow and shooting the arrow to see which nock location indicates the best group, thus indicate the most consistent spine from each arrow.

All arrows used in this test will be within the same spine (350-400) range for a 60 pound bow, though some arrows will be longer by a few inches and or heavier by up to 100 grains.

The test will use the most popular arrows such as the Easton Powerflight, Easton Fatboys, Gold Tip Hunters, PSEX-Weave, Bemans, Victory Arrows, as well as the Victory Nanos (Now calledVAPs).

All arrows will be tipped with Martin Archery 100 grain screw in field points.

Vanes and Feathers

The test will be based on the more popular used Vanes and Feathers such as Bohning Blazers, Bohning X Vanes, Duravane, AAE Vanes,TrueFlight and Gateway Feathers.

This way everyone's favorite vane or feather is included so compound and recurve bow, release and finger shooters can benefit.

Caveat

Keep in mind this test is not to determine the best arrow, vane, feather or point. This test is to find the most consistent part of the spine which will give the best arrow grouping.

Since these arrows are all of varying manufacturers, design, length and vanes, I will be using my 40 meter pin sight and not all arrows will be hitting the gold. For me to adjust my sight for each arrow set of varying size and weight arrows to hit the gold I would have to spend two days doing this test.

Again, we are going for best group, for accuracy into the gold I leave that up to you fellow archers to adjust your pin sights to do that!

(It is assumed all arrow manufacturers (with the exception of PSE's X-Weave carbon arrows) are consistent in their manufacturing process in placing the stiffest or consistent part of the spine in the same location for every arrow to date).

The Issue of Nock Tuning

The problem with nock tuning is vane clearance when you rotate the nock in which the vane may contact any rest that is not a full dropaway, hence the popularity of dropaways.

For this test, I replaced my Spott Hogg Infinity Blade Rest to a Dropaway rest which offers total vane clearance and no vane contact. This is especially critical when rotating nocks at varying degrees when trying to determine the stiffest part of the spine while getting no contact vane clearance. Once I get consistently tight groups, I strip off the vanes and put new vanes to correspond where the spine on the arrow is consistent. I then takeoff my Dropaway rest and put my Spot Hogg Infinity Blade Rest back on.

This test will allow archers whether they use a trigger release or fingers to fletch their vanes to their arrows and tune for best performance. If all things being equal this test should show the location where to place your cock vane over the stiffest or most consistent part of the arrows spine, without having to resort to changing their arrow rest like I have done to gain total vane clearance.

Spine Testers

Spine testers I have used in the past do not determine dynamic spine when an arrow is in flight, which will give me the best arrow grouping, only field testing will determine that. Spine testers are good for wood arrows and I will leave it at that!!

You should know carbon arrow spine can have various spine differences in a dozen arrows of the same set, even Easton X-10s may have one or two arrows in a set of a dozen arrows that are not matched. So there is nothing like true field conditions to see how arrows group at 40 meters when dealing with these carbon spine consistency anomalies. After all isn't great groups what it's all about, followed by sighting adjustments for great accuracy?

Once I attained the best arrow group possible using the Bohning Nock Position Locator, I let another archer shoot all the "newly tuned arrows" to determine if he would also get all arrows to group good and tight.

Below the accompanying photos will show the best grouping at 40 meters using various arrows.

The left photo will show the end result of the best arrow group.

The right photo will show the exact location where the stiffest part of the arrow spine is located and whereto affix your cock vane for best groups.

Easton Fatboy Arrows with TrueFlight Feathers (Parabolic)

Easton Powerflight Arrows with Bohning Blazer Vanes

Easton Powerflight Arrows with AAE Plastifletch Vanes

PSE X-Weaves Arrows with Gateway Feathers Shield Cut

Victory V Force HV Arrows with Bohning Blazer Vanes

Victory Nanos Arrows with Bohning X Vanes Shield Cut Vanes

Beman Arrows Made in France with Gateway Feathers Shield Cut

Gold Tip Arrows with TrueFlight Feathers Shield Cut

Conclusion

Once I adjusted the nock position using the Bohning Nock Position Indicator (Bohning Nock Indicator not yet for sale) on each and every arrow to attain the best arrow group, I photographed the results and posted the photos below.

While all big name arrow manufacturers produce great arrows to meet every archers budget,

PSE X-Weave arrows seem to standout unlike other carbon arrow manufacturers who have an overlapping seam along the length of their arrows. It is said this is the stiffest or most consistent arrow area on the carbon arrows spine.

PSE X-Weave are exactly what the name means,the carbon fibers use a weaving process whereby they are woven around the carbon arrow, hence no seam and it appears the X-Weave arrow groups at varying distances show no matter how you adjust your nock, the stiffness seems to be consistent all around the arrow and accurate.

Please refer to the field test photos below!

Please keep in mind, I am testing for grouping, not accuracy, as all arrows tested have different weight characteristics, thus dialing in for accuracy for each set of arrows for accuracy would take more time than I am willing to give for this test.

Easton Fatboy Arrows equipped with TrueFlight Parabolic Feathers.

Easton Powerflight Arrows with Bohning Yellow Blazer Vanes and AAE Plastifletch Purple Vanes

PSE X-Weaves Arrows with Gateway Feathers Shield Cut.

Actually in all fairness to PSE, it did not matter one iota which way I positioned the nock on the arrow, as grouping was consistently tight, scary tight slapping the arrows together hard.

 

Victory V Force HV Arrows with Bohning Blazer Vanes

Victory Nano Arrows with Bohning X Vanes Shield Cut Vanes

Beman Arrows (Made in France) with Gateway Feathers Shield Cut.

Gold Tip Arrows with True Flight Feathers Shield Cut

Hamskea Curing your Axis of Evil

By Barry O'Regan- Bohning Pro Field Staff

Summary

How many of us take it for granted our new sight is turnkey and ready to shoot out of the box? I know I did!

Most likely 90% of archers, whether shooting target, 3D or hunting take it as gospel.

Gospel soon runs out of prayer when many who are shooting various distances, including uphill and downhill find they miss the 3D X spot or the FITA target or Game animal entirely. Some blame it on the their shooting stance, broadheads, vanes, arrows or the bow, the excuses can be endless. Perhaps one reason may be that out of the box bow sight could be the culprit.

A missed shot when hunting game, lost scores in field shooting and 3D shoots may be attributed to your sights' axis. Hunters using Broadheads or shooting uphill or downhill in rough terrain will certainly understand why a getting your Axis sight planes bang on is important.

Hamskea have developed a 3rd Axis tool to cure your 1st ,2nd and 3rd "Axis of Evil" issues where other axis sight tuning developers left off. Hamskea even supply a How to DVD for a minimal charge.

The HAMSKEA Archery Solutions Easy Third Axis Level™

The Hamskea easy 3rd Axis level will enable even the novice archer to adjust their target and hunting sight for 1st, 2nd and 3rd axis. This is vital in order to achieve the maximum accuracy for any shot angle and distance. Without your axis adjusted correctly, your impact point will vary depending on the severity of the shot angle and distance.

The Easy Third Axis Level™ is easy to use as it mounts to your sight's vertical sight bar (for target sights) or to the riser's sight window (for hunting sights) with the non-marring nylon tipped thumb screw. It has a hard anodized finish and comes with a carrying drawstring pouch.

The great thing about the Hamskea Axis level is it fits in the palm of your hand and can slip easily in your pocket for a quick re-check of your sights axis plane and alignment in the field if your sight gets bumped or jostled around when wearing sling bow quivers or another archer bumps your sight when placing their bow next to yours in the club bow rack.

Best you use a pro pod device and keep your bow away from the rest of the archery pack.

Other Axis tuning sight products

Sure Loc also have a 3rd Axis tool as well, but it looks like it is designed solely to clamp on Sure Loc Sight Machine Heads.

The Hamskea 3rd Axis tool seems to be more universal for all types and makes of sights, hence why I chose the Hamskea. The Hamskea 3rd Axis tool can clamp almost anywhere, from sights to risers if need be.

What I did not realise there is a 4th Axis, it is the sight mount which affixes to your riser, with some risers painted of bizarro designs like my Pro Elite, a cure to ensure your 4th Axis is level is accomplished with a piece of aluminum or other metal to act as a shim between the riser and sight mount.

Other Axis tuning sight products require you to bolt their Axis tuners to the tabletop. These tabletop Axis Tuning models are a fixed static (stationary) design, and to tune your sight it must be performed on a tabletop. Somehow leveling your sights for the correct axis and accuracy on a tabletop does not make great hunting kit, unless you're hunting for chairs!

Why you need to cure your Axis of Evil for Accuracy

A hunting or target sight needs to be affixed to your bow if you are to have any chance at getting an accurate determination of all three axis planes.

I will show how to set up both your Target sight and fixed pin Hunting sight, including how to photos.

Once the sight three axis planes are level, the next step is to raise and lower your bow and compare the alignment of the bows sight bubble with the Hamskea sight bubble. Both bubble positions should be identical and centred.

The next step is to install the threaded Hamskea alignment tool into the Hamskea 3rd Axis tool.

Once done, you will then place your bow under dynamic force (with your Hamskea 3rd axis sight and alignment tool still attached) by drawing back your bow, then looking down the Hamskea alignment sight pin where you can verify the sight alignment by first aiming at a fixed vertical line and then raise and lower bow along the same vertical fixed point. This will ensure the sights up and down sight alignment at full draw is centred and accurate.

If the Hamskea alignment tool on your sight does not vary, your sight alignment and axis plane are bang on accurate for any distance shots as well as those uphill and downhill shots.

The attached photos and instructions I provide will show you how to cure your three axis of evil.

Tools you'll need

To begin you will need a bow vice.

Axis leveling tools you will need:

a)    Hamskea Archery Solutions | Archery Accessories

b)    36 inch Straight Edge Carpenter level (Available at any hardware store)

c)     A small 45 degree Carpenter steel square (Available at any hardware store)

Optional Tools to use

R.S. Archery Products Tuning Levels. (Optional, but great for verifying the bows 1st and 2nd axis too!)

Double Take Archery Laser BowPlane2 This laser is basically an arrow with a laser built into the shaft to align all your contact points such as cams, string, peep, arrow rest and sights.

While you do not need a laser to achieve your 3rd Axis at all, it is a nice to have.

As the attached photos will attest a laser will certainly make like a lot easier if you can beg, borrow or buy one of these tech marvels before setting up your bow before hand.

Beer or Soda Can and Snacks (it's nice to have a tasty refreshing beverage on hand).

Let's get started 

Your sight needs to have a fixed bubble level attached, and if your sight adjustment head is a newer model it is sure to have a 2nd and 3rd Axis adjustment.

If your Hunting sight does not have a fixed bubble level, no fear, you can McGuyver one using one of the R.S. Archery Products clip on bubble level onto the bottom or top of your sight temporarily. (Not perfect, but it should get you in the ball park).

First get your Bow level

Put your sight on your bow and place your bow into the bow vice, level the bow in an upright dead level vertical position and dead level on the horizontal plane. This is imperative for all bows (Refer to photos below).

Attaching the Hamskea 3rd Axis level 

Once the bow is level attach the Hamskea 3rd Axis level onto the vertical sight bar on your Target sight head. If not possible attach it to the flat spot on your dovetail arm. For bolt on hunting sights place your Hamskea 3rd Axis level onto a vertical flat spot on your bow riser. Some hunting bow riser configurations are rounded or curved so try and find a flat vertical spot.

(Refer to the Photos with the Hamskea 3rd Axis below)

1st Axis 

Now set your 1st Axis on your sights dovetail bar.

(*Bolt on sights without a sight bar you will need to keep the Hamskea on a flat vertical spot on your riser, see photos above in previous thread).

You will notice the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level attached to the Sight dovetail bar is level on the Horizontal Plane on the dovetail bar.

As an option (As I have done) you can also attach an R.S. Archery Level vertically to the sight (bar) to ensure the sight (bar) is level on all counts to compare to the bows vertical and horizontal plane is level. (Refer to Photos).

Now compare the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level (Horizontal Plane) at the 1st Axis (foreground) with the sight level (shown in the background)! Certainly an eye opener as the sight level bubble is far left to Hamskea's bubble level at dead centre.

If the sight bar is not level in or out, try readjusting your sight bracket, if it is to no avail, check your mounting bracket and shim it with metal between the mounting block and the riser. You can use feeler gauge metal or cut a piece of aluminum from your Beer can, as you should now be on your second beer!

2nd Axis and 3rd Axis Sight Adjustment

Unlike the 1st Axis in which you need to have your bow upright in a front to back or forward to rear motion to get your bow level.........

Your 2nd Axis plane on your bow works as a side to side motion, such as a your bow if tilted incorrectly you would (standing and facing the bow straight on when it is in the bow vice) end up with a bow with a "top bow left limb position and a bottom bow limb right position" or top right to bottom left" adjustment tilt. The bow should be perfectly positioned up and down.

Adjust your bows side to side (left to right) tilt or plane ensuring your bow is straight up dead level on the 2nd axis, before proceeding to correct your sights up and down 2nd axis plane.

Hence why it is important to have your bow once in the vice to be perfectly aligned with Axis 1 level (forward-backwards position dead level), as well as your 2nd Axis (left to right) dead level plane.

We will now proceed with the 2nd Axis adjustment for the sight level. Affix the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level to the sight block or if this cannot be done affix the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level to the dovetail sight bar.

* (Bolt on Hunting sights keep the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level affixed to the riser)

You will note I use both the Hamskea Axis level as well as the R.S. Archery Products clip on level to ensure accuracy on all axis planes.

* If you have a modern sight, it should have marking indicators on the side or bottom of the sight stating 2nd and 3rd Axis with an adjustment screw e.g. Axcel sights. If not adjust the screw which affects your sight body vertical up and down adjustment, refer to photos attached. Make the adjustment until your sight bubble on the Hamskea is level. Lock down the 2 Axis screw and proceed to the next step adjusting your 3rd Axis.

3rd Axis Sight Adjustment

I use a metal Carpenters 45 degree square (Not Shown in Photo, Camera exposure was off) to set my 3rd Axis by placing the Carpenters square against a flat spot on the sight machine head and compare the squares metal edge when placed against the sight. I have a drawing instead attached. Sorry.

If it is not flush with the metal edge I adjust the screws for the 3rd Axis plane until the sight body is flush with the Carpenter squares metal edge.

Think of the 3rd Axis plane on your sight body like a door in your home, it swings in and out horizontally displaying a swinging motion.

We will now proceed with the 3rd Axis adjustment for the sight level. With the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level on the sight block or if this cannot be done affix the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level to the dovetail sight bar. * (Bolt on Hunting sights keep the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level affixed to the riser) You will note I in this tutorial that I use both the Hamskea Axis level as well as the R.S. Archery Products clip on level to ensure accuracy on all axis planes.

Using the metal Carpenters 45 degree square you can now set your 3rd Axis by placing the Carpenters square against a flat spot on the sight machine head and compare the squares metal edge when placed against the sight. If it is not flush with the metal edge I adjust the screws for the 3rd plane until the sight is flush with the Carpenter squares metal edge.

Once you have your 3rd Axis squared with the Carpenters metal 45 degree square, verify the sight bubble level position by reaffixing your Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level position on your sights machine head or dovetail. (For bolt on hunting sights bolted to the riser, verification is the same) Both bubble the sight and Hamskea bubble levels should be aligned perfectly with the Bow set in the vertical position.

Now with both bubbles aligned perfectly, loosen your bow vice vertical adjustment just enough so you can now move your bow up and down in the bow vice. Your bubble level on your sight and the bubble level on your Hamskea 3rd Axis tool should remain in the identical vertical bubble position.

Now the Trial and Error adjustments

Now with both bubbles aligned perfectly, loosen your bow vice vertical adjustment just enough so you can now move your bow up and down in the bow vice.

Your bubble level on your sight and the bubble level on your Hamskea 3rd Axis tool should remain in the identical vertical bubble position.

Bubble levels not identical ?

If the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble is out of centre when raising the bow up or down, check your Bows horizontal level (side to side) as it may have shifted in the bow vice.

If the sight level bubble is also out of centre left or right when raising the bow up or down, check your Bows horizontal level (side to side) as it may have shifted in the bow vice.

If the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble is centred perfectly when raising the bow up or down, but your sight bubble has shifted left or right, you will have to adjust your sights 3rd Axis and repeat the 3rd Axis Sight Adjustment steps again until both the sight bubble level and the Hamskea bubble level are aligned perfectly. See the photos in the preceding thread. If not go, level the bow again and determine if the 2nd and 3rd axis needs re-adjustment.

Another reason of the Axis is not aligned is you already finished off a six pack of beer on an empty stomach at the "Let's get started phase of this tutorial" didn't you?

Well you may as well go lie down on the couch for a few hours and repeat the process all over again.

If you have all three Axis aligned, proceed to next phase of this tuning project.

Once you have cured your "Axis of Evil" proceed to your bows "Sight Alignment"

Take a roll of masking tape and a 36 inch Straight Edge Carpenter level.

Place a 5 foot strip of masking tape and place it vertically on a flat wall or door while aligning it perfectly with your 36 inch Carpenter straight edge level.

Remove the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level off your bow and insert the threaded Hamskea alignment pin halfway into the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level threaded hole.

Reinstall the Hamskea 3rd Axis bubble level back on your bow(either on your riser or dovetail arm, ensuring the threaded rod is aligned vertically (up and down) and is visible to use as a vertical sight pin.

Then stand back 5 or 10 feet from the 5 foot perfectly aligned vertical tape strip you placed on the door or wall and draw back your bow as you normally would (Arrow optional, if you are going to use an arrow indoors, tell everyone to leave the room(s)).

With the bow drawn back align the Hamskea alignment pin along the edge of the vertical masking tape outer edge (Don't bother looking at the bubble levels on the Hamskea or the bow sight).

If you have followed this tutorial perfectly, your alignment pin should be perfectly aligned with the outer edge of the masking tape. The at full draw, move the bow up and down noting if the alignment pin is tracking perfectly along the outer edge of the masking tape.

If all is aligned perfectly, you're good to go. You can now proceed to puff up your chest, high five everyone within shouting distance and yell to your significant other that "YOU WANT STEAK FOR DINNER"!

Now get out to range and fire out a few dozen arrows and witness better accuracy than ever before.

The Hamskea sight runs about $54.95 U.S. and the instructional DVD $11.95 U.S.

The R.S. Archery Product Levels (Quantity 2) run about $15.00 U.S.

The Double Take Archery Laser BowPlane2 $99.00 U.S.

Needless to say these three above mentioned products should be a must have in an Archer's Kit.